EL PASO — I can see Mexico from my hotel. Like a fulsome bride, she shimmers in the distance. Su nombre: Heroica Ciudad Juárez. Bob Dylan once warned of visiting on rainy days in spring time. But the sky is clear. A stiff breeze rattles the window pane. Is it Mexican wind? Impossible to say without breathing it in. That’s why I’ve come. To search for answers. Here in Beto O’Rourke’s America.